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Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
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Flavor 2014

Modern: Mixtli

Photo: , License: N/A

Prickly Pear Sorbet from the Oaxaca Menu


Mixtli
5251 McCullough,
(832) 520-8928,
restaurantmixtli.com

The notion of selling tickets to a restaurant as though it were a night at the theater has been taken up in San Antonio by a duo of young chefs embarking on their first, stand-alone venture. In a railroad car. For a maximum of 12 people. At $85 a pop including service and selected beverages.

Mixtli, which means cloud in Nahuatl, is the name chosen for the enterprise by chefs and caterers Rico Torres and Diego Galicia, and it serves as a kind of muse, floating from one regional Mexican cuisine to another. For those willing to let their feelings about the country’s cuisine be upended, silver linings abound. Mixtli’s themes change every 45 days; the inaugural one centered on Oaxaca. The menu, at this writing, investigates the foods of Mexico City’s varied subway stops.

The following synopsis of Oaxaca can accordingly only be a symbolic weather forecast. That 12-course meal began with an agua fresca of green cactus fruit, accented with ginger and lime, in which floated a single lime blossom. Next arrived a Platonic chochoyte, a masa dumpling usually served in broth.

But, there being none in sight, the dumpling’s typical indentation served to cradle a tiny cube of panela cheese.

The first “main” to appear was a single, impressive shrimp, with garlic foam, on a brushstroke of chileajo, a paste made from guajillo chiles—ethereal but effective. A mole negro adorning duck on a blue corn tortilla was enlivened by several well-toasted pods. Oaxaca, being almost as known for its varied moles as Puebla, a yellow rendition next made an appearance, cradling a sous-vide cooked Texas quail … and so it went until dessert, when a drink of light yet intense cacao (the guys roast and grind their own chocolate) and honey followed as a companion to a corn and roasted fig pudding. We sigh as abuela spins.

Flavor 2014
  • 3 New Local Frozen Treat Purveyors Will Help You Chill Most of us already have our raspa stand of choice. Whether you’re going to wait in line at Las Nieves on Hildebrand—regardless of how many people may... | 7/29/2014
  • The Women of Food The culinary world can be a bit of a boys club. From chefs, bartenders and owners to folks on the production side—farmers, ranchers, fishmongers—Y-chromosomes abound. However, many members of the fairer sex, empirically less prone to attention-grabbing soci | 7/29/2014
  • Alternative Options at Señor Veggie It’s not every day a vegan restaurant opens in San Antonio.After years as a catering company and food booth at the Quarry Farmers and Ranchers Market... | 7/29/2014
  • American: Cured The Pearl’s latest eatery is also its newest crowning glory. As the first solo venture for chef Steve McHugh, Cured has set a new standard for an... | 7/29/2014
  • Asian: Hot Joy Southtown’s favorite pop-up finally found a permanent location inside the former China Latina—and it was about time... | 7/29/2014
  • BBQ: B&D Ice House What’s old is new again inside Southtown’s B&D Icehouse. After former owner Bruno D’Zanski shut down operations of the neighborhood hang in 2010, after more... | 7/29/2014
  • Coffee: Rosella Coffee Co. Journalists love coffee. Weekend anchor for KSAT Charles Gonzalez loved it so much he decided to open his own java joint this spring. As the newest coffee... | 7/29/2014
  • Delis & Diners: Fratello’s Deli & Market When it comes to delis and diners, San Anto has a ways to go. But in the meantime, you could do worse than checking out Fratello’s on Broadway... | 7/29/2014
  • Dessert & Bakery: La Panaderia Los panaderos are in San Antonio. Brothers David and Jose Cacéres have opened the first of what could be many locations of La Panaderia, a concept the... | 7/29/2014
  • Food Trucks: Boardwalk on Bulverde After three and a half years as the city’s original food truck park, this year Boardwalk on Bulverde got a serious facelift... Cameron Davies, owner of Cruising Kitchens and the Boa | 7/29/2014
  • Global: Casa del Kabob The creamy chipotle sauce that comes with some orders gives credence to Casa del Kabob’s mash-up name, but once inside the door, the place’s... | 7/29/2014
  • Italian: SoBro Pizza Co. If you build it, they will come. If you build it underneath their apartments, they’ll stop by for gelato, Napolitano pizzas and an excellent wine... | 7/29/2014
  • Mexican: El Machito The recent history behind the Alamo Cement Company buildings demands a certain level of gravitas. Stone Werks relocated down the road, while... | 7/29/2014
  • Modern: Mixtli The notion of selling tickets to a restaurant as though it were a night at the theater has been taken up in San Antonio by a duo of young chefs... | 7/29/2014
  • Pub: Stay Golden Social House Puro meets Pearl-adjacent at this laidback joint that packs a punch with seriously delicious cocktails... | 7/29/2014
  • Seafood: El 7 Mares It really doesn’t get any more puro seafood than El 7 Mares, a 20-year Westside institution that proves you can get fresh seafood just down the... | 7/29/2014
  • Steakhouse: Galpão Gaucho We’re always looking for a bargain. So when a locally owned churrascaria opened up in Loopland, we made the pilgrimage up 281 for a taste of what... | 7/29/2014
  • Sushi: Sushi Seven Sometimes wasabi just doesn’t cut it. If you prefer your sushi a little hotter, and with a serious hint of San Antonio spice, Sushi Seven is... | 7/29/2014
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