Food & Drink
Wake & Bake: Barbaro, Cured and Taps y Tapas share morning faves
Published: May 14, 2014
For me, rolling out of bed on Sunday is a struggle—the sheets are nice and cool, I may or may not be recovering from the previous night’s debauchery and it’s the one day when I’m not entirely obliged to work (usually). The only thing that will get me up and at ’em faster than you can say “French-pressed coffee” is the promise of a hearty brunch.
What’s not to love about fluffy pancakes, crisp waffles, house-made sausage and all the bacon and eggs money can buy? Without delving into Bubba Blue territory, you can enjoy the yolky goodness in several ways. And, of course, there’s the booze—any chance to day drink.
I’m not the only brunch hound around these parts if the lines at Feast, Cured, The Monterey and yes, Guenther House are to be believed. Hundreds of SA’s breakfast fiends scour the city searching for the perfect combination of Eggs Benny meets a cure-all Bloody.
In case you’re not a morning person, or you’re not willing to brave the masses and wait times customary to brunch, the Current is hooking you up with three recipes from some of our favorite spots.
Barbaro’s Skillet Pancake
2720 McCullough, (210) 320-2261
I consider Barbaro to be one of the city’s best-kept brunch secrets. Wait times are nil and there’s plenty to choose from including buttery grits, Bakery Lorraine goodies and this not-so-little number. Chef Mark Martinez usually goes through 15 quarts of batter on Sundays.
“We wanted to take it a bit bigger with the skillet pancake,” said Martinez. The nearly one-pound flapjack comes in two iterations–a sweet version with seasonal fruit compote (currently raspberry) and the more-popular savory take with Steen’s pure cane syrup, whipped goat cheese and bits of Benton’s bacon. It’s meant for sharing, but we’re not judging if you take one down solo.
Instant Pancake Mix
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
2 1/3 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1 egg, separated
3/4 cup buttermilk
2 1/2tablespoons melted butter
1 cup instant pancake mix
1 tablespoon olive oil
For pancake mix: Combine flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and sugar and sift thoroughly. Place in an airtight container. Mix is good up to three months.
For batter: Separate egg into two medium bowls. Whisk the white with the buttermilk in one bowl, and yolk with melted butter in the other. Combine wet mixes with dry mix, and whisk the batter until brought together, making sure to leave small clumps.
To cook: Heat oven to 400 degrees. Martinez and his cooks at Barbaro usually use a 10-in cast iron French pan to attain the nice browning, but any heavy-bottom pan will do. Heat pan gently and add oil, not butter or else pancake will burn. Pan is ready when oil shimmers in the light. Add 5 ounces by volume (just over half a cup) of pancake batter to the pan, spread evenly and place pan in the pre-heated oven. Cook the pancake about 70 percent of the way on one side. Once you see the edges start to firm up it should be safe to flip. After about 3 minutes check the pancake with a cake tester or butter knife. If the tester comes out clean, it’s good to go. Place on a plate (or pizza pan as Barbaro does) and serve with your choice of toppings.
> Email Jessica Elizarraras