Trending
MOST READ
SAPD Issues Thousands of Tickets for Homelessness

SAPD Issues Thousands of Tickets for Homelessness

News: Data and records obtained by the Current show that between January 1, 2013, and early October of this year the San Antonio... By Alexa Garcia-Ditta and Elaine Wolff 10/22/2014
6 Sinfully Good Grilled Cheese Sandwiches in SA

6 Sinfully Good Grilled Cheese Sandwiches in SA

Food & Drink: Cheesy Jane’s. Multiple locations, cheesyjanes.com. If the name is any indicator, this San Antonio staple doesn’t mess around when it comes to... By Tommie Ethington 10/22/2014
Alamo Ice House Brings Hill Country to Downtown

Alamo Ice House Brings Hill Country to Downtown

Food & Drink: There was a special kind of draw at Alamo Ice House on a recent Tuesday evening. A handful of weeks after opening its... By Jessica Elizarraras 10/22/2014
A Closer Look: The ins and outs of a few important races

A Closer Look: The ins and outs of a few important races

News: For more than a year now gubernatorial candidates Wendy Davis and Greg Abbott have dominated airwaves and secured way... By Mark Reagan 10/22/2014
‘Walking the Camino’ Explores a Treacherous Trek Through Spain

‘Walking the Camino’ Explores a Treacherous Trek Through Spain

Screens: In the Middle Ages, pilgrims walked the 500-mile El Camino de Santiago de Compostela as a pilgrimage to the tomb of Apostle St. James. It was an... By Stephen James Ross 10/22/2014
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Value Vino: Beating the Texas heat with chillable reds

Photo: Courtesy photos, License: N/A

Courtesy photos


Everybody knows this, right: Serve white wines chilled and red wines at “room” temperature. Just not in Texas.

When Conventional Wisdom devised the “room-temp” thing, he (or she) was thinking more mid-sixties to low seventies, so it’s clear that even your big-buck Bordeauxs benefit from 20 minutes or so chilling time. But beyond that, there is an entire category of red wines that take willingly to being tucked into ice—and they’re great for Texas summer drinking. Here are some, most well under $20.

“This is really pretty good if you don’t think of it as wine; I could drink the whole bottle,” said a taster of the Villa M Rosso, a generic red from Italy that’s lightly sweet, strawberry-scented and slightly frizzante, or fizzy. At just 5 percent alcohol, you could drink the whole thing without remorse, and with nutty cheeses. At 7 percent, the Roscato Rosso Dolce from Provincia di Pavia continues Italy’s mastery of bubbly reds—red raspberry variant. It was best straight out of the ice and it worked well with a spicy potato salad. Only slightly more serious, at 8 percent, is Il Lambrusco by Mionetto from Italy’s Emilia Romagna region. Intensely red, with flavors of red berries and an insistent frothiness, its sweetness is nicely balanced by acidity. Think grilled chicken sausage for this one.

From having tasted them at Dough, the full range of frizzante reds from Cantina Puianello, presented in styles from sweet to medium dry, goes well with pizzas, burrata and polenta cake. “Absolutely 100-percent perfect with salumi,” said the winery rep of the driest version, the Contrada Borgoleto. While also presenting it as good with barbecue, he offered that “it’s not an introspective wine, but you can drink it all afternoon.”

Many of us are used to giving pinot noirs a slight chill; some even more. From Italy’s Friuli region comes Antonutti’s 2011 Pinot Nero, redolent of black plum and showing well with duck rillettes. The same producer’s Refosco (a grape most Americans don’t know) exhibited deeper, earthier tones with a touch of espresso and seemed to prefer life a tad warmer. Ditto with Rossopesce, a non-vintage Italian red, with just a touch of tannin, that was easy to imagine with grilled salmon.

That same low- to mid-fifties range is where Beaujolais is also comfortable. We sampled Kermit Lynch’s 2012 Domain du Peuble Pére et Fils, a simple Appellation Contrôlée that was nonetheless beautifully structured, juicy and tart—and great with roasted corn. Like a kid on a sugar high, the 2010 Cupcake California Red Velvet had almost too much going for it: chocolate, cinnamon, cherry … the cold tamped it down enough to appreciate the nuances.

Back in Italy, Citra’s 2012 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, flaunting deep, red fruit, was the wine most of us could see drinking at a range of temperatures, from bracingly cool to room temp in, ahem, a Burgundy chateau. Moral: when in Texas, chill, dude, chill.

Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus