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Two Step provides a tale of architectural reuse

Photo: Photos by Richard Teitz, License: N/A

Photos by Richard Teitz

Restored limestone walls inside Two Step

Photo: , License: N/A

Blackened catfish tacos with beans.


I ordered the plato de caballero, with smoked brisket and pulled pork (sausage is available too; pick two of three), with sides of slaw and Creole mustard red potato salad, which was tasty but definitely shy on the mustard. The meats have that rich, low-heat, slow-cooked flavor. And when I asked for lean-cut brisket, that's what I got.

The usual selection of burgers is augmented by ribs and brisket, plus a few chicken plates. You can get wraps or sandwiches, most at $7.95 with a side. An 11-ounce burger will set you back $11.95. Dinners are pricier, with heavier meals of steak, tenderloin, and pork chops, although sandwiches are still available.

Don't pass on desserts, all of which are made on the premises. We split a delicious slab of bread pudding, with golden raisins and a fat scoop of Amy's French vanilla ice cream. Then we waddled out to the car.•

Two Step Restaurant & Cantina

9840 W Loop 1604 N
(210) 688-2686
twosteprestaurant.com

 

The Skinny
An architectural tour de force serving solid Texas meats with time-tested recipes by Executive Chef Steve Warner.

 

Best bets
Margaritas, brisket plates/wraps/sandwiches, bread pudding

 

Hours
11am-10pm, Sun-Wed;11am-11pm, Thurs; 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat

 

Prices
$6.95-11.95 at lunch; $6.95-23.95 at dinner

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