Tastes of tongue, intestine, and ear prove city has Imperial fare to fawn for
Published: July 20, 2011
Gluttons for both taste and punishment, we also ordered the crispy pork intestine with dried pepper, and though one diner thought the combination of copious red chilies and Sichuan peppercorns over the top (the peppercorns lent an impression of floral soap), the dish proved to have staying power. Nevertheless, it was a relief to be able to dip into an order of crispy tofu in garlic sauce when the palate began to numb. The cubes of tofu, delicately crunchy on the exterior and whisper-light on the interior, were perfect with the chunky sauce.
The only real disappointment on two visits, in fact, was an evening’s special of stir-fried water spinach, sometimes called hollow vegetable. It was featureless and too oily but didn’t dim the desire to return for stewed “belt fish” or, perhaps better yet, “bang-bang” chicken. Yes, yes. •
2347 NW Military Hwy (210) 525-8118
Challenging Chinese that returns the genre to respectability.
Chengdu dumplings; crispy tofu in garlic sauce; sautéed duck tongue with jalapeño
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