Trending
MOST READ
Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013
The Different Types of Roommates You Might Encounter and How to Deal

The Different Types of Roommates You Might Encounter and How to Deal

College Guide 2013: If you’re going to be in a college dorm, a spacious apartment, a cramped shared bedroom or anywhere on a college campus for that matter, be prepared for your... By Mary Caithn Scott 8/20/2013
Artist on Artist: Gary Sweeney interviews Catherine Lee

Artist on Artist: Gary Sweeney interviews Catherine Lee

Arts & Culture: If I ever found myself teaching an art class, I would pack up my students and drive them to Wimberley, where I would give them a tour of... By Gary Sweeney 10/1/2014
Sky High: Getting acquainted with Christopher Ware’s Paramour

Sky High: Getting acquainted with Christopher Ware’s Paramour

Food & Drink: Christopher Ware leads our group into a lofty conference space with mile-high ceilings, two giant wooden tables and possibly the comfiest... By Jessica Elizarraras 10/1/2014
Savage Love: Friend in Need

Savage Love: Friend in Need

Arts & Culture: A straight male friend practices sounding and has for years. I am pretty sure he does other things that he isn’t telling anyone about... By Dan Savage 10/1/2014
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Sustenio's New Southwestern provides a trip down memory lane

Photo: Photos by Veronica Luna, License: N/A

Photos by Veronica Luna

A new variation of Sustenio's bacon-wrapped wild boar, served with a tamale.

Photo: , License: N/A

Mouth-watering ceviches from Sustenio.


Sustenio's décor, with wood-block floors, massive marble and wooden countertops, and acres of stainless on view in the open kitchen, could sustain almost any style of contemporary cuisine; there is nothing blatantly Southwestern about it. But we fell right into the hit-parade trap by ordering a red snapper tamal with Thai curry masa ($28). If nostalgia is one's goal, this is a lovely trip down memory lane: the masa is subtly spicy, the snapper beautifully integrated. Yet the "salsa Veracruzana" consisted only of black beans and cremita, and I had expected more — something to push the banana leaf envelope. Loved the seriously caramelized banana, however.

In the case of a Texas venison loin ($29), it was the understudy yucca-huitlacoche hash (sound familiar — at least in concept?) that nearly stole the show; the venison, though its CVap (vapor) oven-abetted texture was a revelation, seemed almost too sophisticated, especially in contrast to a lusty chipotle barbecue sauce. Nevertheless, the plate was beautiful, and nothing of it remained to help usher out the last of an exceptional bottle of Belle Gloss 2010 Meiomi pinot noir ($42). For a more full-bore experience, try instead the bacon-wrapped wild boar loin — and a bigger wine.

Just as there are fancy appliances for cooking, there are devices such as the Anti-Griddle for instant freezing. Gilbert has one. But fresh fruit sorbets can easily be done the old-fashioned way, and our three-flavor sampler, special kudos to the carrot-mango, was the perfect way to exit an evening marked by professional service and fully assured cooking. For more thrills, though, we think we would take advantage of an $85 multi-course ceviche-bar tasting menu with paired wines available. You know you'll be getting a ceviche first course, but everything else is chef's wild card, allowing both of you to stretch. A new main menu with less masa and more Gilbert is said to be on its way. •

Sustenio

17103 La Cantera Pkwy
(210) 598-2950
eilanhotel.com

 

The Skinny
The classy restaurant in the somewhat pompous Eilan Hotel & Spa focuses on modern Southwestern cooking — at least for now. Superstar chef Stephan Pyles has set the tone.

 

Best bets
Most ceviches, luxurious pork belly, bacon-wrapped wild boar. Since the menu will change, pick the most local-sounding dishes.

 

Hours
Dinner 6-10pm Sun-Sat

 

Prices
Dinner $26-$39

Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus