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Food & Drink

Subtle, adventurous craft propels Monterey's standing in SA cuisine

Photo: Josh Huskin, License: N/A

Josh Huskin

Littleneck clams, pig-ear bacon, and lamb broth from the Montere


Crystal also enlivens the hollandaise served over the gently fried eggs that top two slabs of crumb-coated fried green tomatoes. The dish is a genial take on the time-honored Benedict (needing only salt on the tomatoes themselves — tomatoes always need salt), and it is just one of the reasons Watson was recently honored by the website starchefs.com as a regional Rising Star. Put Monterey together with Feast and the recently opened Bliss, and it's apparent that the Southtown star is also rising. Wa(t)chale, Stone Oak. •

The Monterey

1127 S St. Mary's
(210) 745-2581
themontereysa.com

 

The Skinny
A backyard for the urban hip of all ages, the Monterey is more than a cool place to hang; the kitchen also turns out just-inventive-enough plates, small to large, and pairs them with a thoughtfully curated wine and beer list.

 

Best bets
Anything pickled, all veg — even the ones you hate such as broccoli, pork rilletes, clams with pig-ear bacon (really), fried green tomatoes at brunch … and ask about off-menu offal.

 

Hours
5pm-midnight, Tues-Sat; 10am-2pm Sun

 

Prices $4.50-$17.50

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