Food & Drink
Simpler dishes offer reason to join SA's pilgrimage to Mark Bliss's new eatery
Published: April 18, 2012
At least for now, venison also makes a regular appearance on the menu, and its preparation seems to change frequently. There is occasionally a juniper and peppercorn-crusted loin paired with sweetbreads that sounds like a match made in heaven. However, my venison roulade, though beautifully presented, seemed bloodless and lacking in any gamy conviction. The same feelings followed a serving of snapper in a hazelnut crust: the fish was impeccably cooked, and the accompanying artichoke hearts were fantastic, but I didn't need a second date.
Prosciutto-wrapped sea bass might have been a better choice, and duck with foie gras was my I-almost-ordered-it other entrée choice.
Bliss's wine list is neither long not comprehensive, but neither does it beat you over the head with blowzy chardonnays or over-priced cabernets; Italy, Spain, and France are nicely covered, and there are nods to Austria, Alsace, and Argentina. I have rarely been disappointed. It's also safe to say that desserts should please all comers as, for the moment at least, Bliss has engaged the services of Nancy Fitch of Fredericksburg's Peach Tree cafe. In her hands a watermelon sorbet was sublime, a chocolate box filled with mousse and dulce de leche appropriately decadent — just in case you need an antidote to more lofty adoration. •
926 S Presa
A service-station turned shrine to contemporary American cooking with Mark Bliss as its high priest.
Charcuterie, blini, lamb chops, and scallops all shine — along with decadent desserts.
5-10pm Tue-Thur, 5-11pm Fri-Sat