Trending
MOST READ
Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Music: Chris Pérez never saw it coming. “All I ever wanted to do was play guitar,” he told the Current. “I never thought I’d be the subject of an interview... By Enrique Lopetegui 8/28/2013
SAPD Issues Thousands of Tickets for Homelessness

SAPD Issues Thousands of Tickets for Homelessness

News: Data and records obtained by the Current show that between January 1, 2013, and early October of this year the San Antonio... By Alexa Garcia-Ditta and Elaine Wolff 10/22/2014
Alamo Ice House Brings Hill Country to Downtown

Alamo Ice House Brings Hill Country to Downtown

Food & Drink: There was a special kind of draw at Alamo Ice House on a recent Tuesday evening. A handful of weeks after opening its... By Jessica Elizarraras 10/22/2014
Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013
6 Sinfully Good Grilled Cheese Sandwiches in SA

6 Sinfully Good Grilled Cheese Sandwiches in SA

Food & Drink: Cheesy Jane’s. Multiple locations, cheesyjanes.com. If the name is any indicator, this San Antonio staple doesn’t mess around when it comes to... By Tommie Ethington 10/22/2014
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Simpler dishes offer reason to join SA's pilgrimage to Mark Bliss's new eatery

Photo: Rick Cortez, License: N/A

Rick Cortez

Mark Bliss in the kitchen.

Photo: , License: N/A

Charcuterie plate


Some years ago, while wandering off the tourist tracks of Venice (indulge me here), I happened on a neighborhood wine bar. A chalkboard listed several wines I didn't know, so I determined to drink my way through as many of them as time and budget would allow. (It was cool in the wine bar, OK?) On a counter beneath the chalkboard sat a gleaming red prosciutto slicer, and in time, perhaps aided by the wines, I came to see it as worthy of devotion as any of the saints of San Marco — and surely more useful.

The gleaming red meat slicer that sits at the Bliss bar is just such an object. Little wonder that Mark Bliss seemed almost like an adoring acolyte as he demonstrated the effortless shaving of slices of prosciutto so thin you could literally read a wine label through one; several such slices, along with other cured meats, cheese, and the usual accoutrements, can anchor a very nice platter for sampling and sipping at said, intimate-scaled bar. (There are five seats, if I recall, and Kristian will take very good care of you.)

Since this is still Bliss's honeymoon period, said bar is also the perfect place to watch the wine and food world as we know it locally pass through: foodie camp followers, chefs, serious wine folk … you may recognize many of them. For that matter, you may be one of them. Some arrive out of curiosity, others to pay homage to our own culinary San Marco who has been absent from the local scene for a time. It's altogether fitting that he should return to this, a beautifully burnished, nave-like space that proves that, in the right hands (the architect is Candid Rogers), even an ex-service station can be transformed into something almost reverential in feel. Artworks by Harold Wood only amplify the atmosphere.

The ecclesiastic imagery could easily get out of hand here, so to return to the secular realm, let's start with some appetizers: potato blini with crème fraîche, a precious poached quail egg, and a smidgen of truffle oil-accented caviar are as light as a host (sorry) and disappear just as quickly; more earth-bound, and listed under the occasional "offal" category, was a plate of lightly breaded sweetbreads all tricked out with black rice, mushrooms, and a hint of cayenne-like heat. It could easily have gone off the tracks, but kept its cool. Or heat, to be more accurate. Add Bliss to the short list of places having mastered this underappreciated delicacy.

In general, though, the more complicated a dish, the less interesting I found it. Samples of friends' scallops with cheddary grits and herb-crusted rack of lamb were very good indeed, suggesting that the kitchen excels with good product minimally treated. Red-chile-braised Berkshire pork shank (from Idaho), on the other hand, was a disappointment despite a marvelously yielding texture; there was simply no depth of flavor — and hardly a hint of chile. A twig of broccolini, however, was happily consumed — and no, the Supreme Court didn't make me do it. A beet salad seemed to stumble due to an overly fussy presentation that diminished the inherent beetiness of the dish.

Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus