Si Señor delivers the heart of Mexico with sophisticated dishes

Si Señor's Ceviche Acapulqueño isn't all that different from the coastal ceviches one can find at Mexican restaurants elsewhere in town, but its seasonings seem true (the whitefish is firm, fresh, and plentiful), and the accompanying Pescaditas Puerto Marques do trump the usual saltines. The shredded tuna that fills these well-fried turnovers isn't wildly interesting in its own right, but put the entire package together and sunny shores might well be brought to mind.

There are other dishes on the menu that aren't likely to be found elsewhere in town. Raviolis filled with huitlacoche are among them — and so is duck breast sauced in pipián. To be found under the De Monte Arriba section of the menu, the breast is just on the verge of being overcooked, but the sauce, its pumpkin seed base announced by some scattered pepitas, is bright green, intensely herbal, and anything but toned down for a local audience. A zingy guacamole and an oniony pico de gallo came with the duck, again making for a well-dressed plate. But for all the attempts at promulgating de-Tex'd Mex, it will take more than nostalgic nationals to keep places like Si Señor going. It's time to step up to the unfamiliar plate; enchiladas will always be there. •