Restaurant Review
Old Havana romance translates in many Ocho dishes
Josh Huskin
The Montserrat and Havana Cubano, served with potato chips at Ocho.
Published: September 14, 2011
Drinkers desiring bigger plates to justify rounds of rum-soaked drinks have only two options at present: hanger steak a la plancha and a pan-roasted snapper. The snapper I was served was a little pallid looking and seemed underdone to boot, but the taste transcended the look — after the requested sea salt arrived. The fish’s mint, mezcal, mango topping and its bed of “cool” black bean slaw didn’t live up to expectations, however; the former, effectively missing the mezcal, was mostly jicama, the latter was marinated cabbage in the main. A dollop of crema Mexicana that had at first seemed unnecessary turned out to be welcome.
Hints of Havana’s future aspirations, though, might be apparent in the revival of the hotel’s Supper Clubs series, the first of which is set to star Andrew Weissman on October 19. Subsequent club dates will bring the menu’s creators into sharper focus. •
Ocho
1015 Navarro St
(210) 222-2008
havanasanantonio.com
The Skinny
Mostly small plates with Latin leanings served in a glassy lounge above the River Walk
Best Bets
The Havana Margarita with shrimp and crab campechana or the Montserrat cocktail with the Havana Cubano
Hours
Breakfast 7-11am daily; lunch and dinner, 11:30am-close
Prices $6-$16
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