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Food & Drink

Nicha's Comida Mexicana: la madre of global mexican cocina

Photo: Josh Huskin, License: N/A

Josh Huskin

Tortilla soup combo from Nicha's Comida Mexicana.

In Taco USA, Arellano describes one burrito as being "beyond cosmic," and says that the flour tortilla-wrapped bomb "wasn't historically widespread in Mexico," adding credence to the notion of, in this case, Cal-Mex cuisine as the source of its spread within this country and around the world. The burrito cannot be claimed by Texas, a factoid that may be cheered by many. Nevertheless, Nicha's claims that its Texas Fried burrito (chimichanga elsewhere) is an "original since 1977," and it is the bomb of all bombs.

But again I have to say that despite its muy large size, there's an element of near-finesse. Yes, the package must be at least nine inches long and about six in circumference, but the flour wrapper has been very discretely fried, the chili con carne topping is pure and unembarrassed by gravy, and the filling, though heavy with bean, cheese and a choice of meats, is really pretty tasty — not I term I often use. Yes, my al carbon carne was a touch overcooked, but the flavor was just fine.

Entonces, Waziristan, come 'n' take it — but remember, Nicha's "cocina is truly a familia effort."

Nicha's Comida Mexicana

3119 Roosevelt (and 5059 NW Loop 410)
(210) 922-3330
Best Bets Breakfast platos, menudo, even the fried burrito
Hours 7am-10pm Mon-Thu, 7am-11pm Fri-Sat
Prices $-$$

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