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Food & Drink

More than superb sakes — Izakaya Nin sushi offerings nearly enough, too

Photo: Josh Huskin, License: N/A

Josh Huskin

Bacon-wrapped enoki cooking on Izakaya Nin’s robata grill.

In contrast, and utterly laser-like in its clarity and focus, was the simplest roll of all, the Umejiso maki. There were just four ingredients in this tiny maki: rice, the nori wrapper, puréed salty plum and shiso leaf, and the flavor burst was breathtakingly intense. We kept coming back to it after less-pure rolls, such as the salmon tataki in which “torched” salmon dotted with puréed garlic and olive oil had been draped over a roll with kanikama (“krab”), asparagus, and cucumber. Sadly, the torching seemed too timid to do much of anything — but maybe the issue is cultural: what Japanese may consider exquisitely subtle, others could easily mistake for bland.

Which is precisely why a return may be required. And there are several sakes yet to sip. •


Izakaya Nin Japanese Tapas & Sushi

20330 Huebner Rd


The Skinny
A classy sushi joint with a charcoal-fired robata bar serving Japanese “tapas”


Best Bets
Sake selection, select rolls (Tiger Eye, and Sakura), chicken and green onion yakitori, and simple makis (plum and shiso leaf)


Lunch: Mon-Thurs 11:30am-2:30pm, Fri-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm
Dinner: Mon-Thurs 5:30pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5:30pm-11pm, Sun 5pm-9pm


Prices $3-$12 (not including combos)

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