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Food & Drink

Mixtli’s Pricey Dinners Offer Quality, Not Quantity

Photo: Casey Howell, License: N/A

Casey Howell

Literally cloudy: Prickly pear sorbet, lime leaf cream mousse and liquid nitrogen


At this point, one part of me wanted something more substantial—maybe a dish reinterpreting Oaxaca’s lusty dried pork called cecina. The tamal Oaxaqueno, course five out of eight, might have provided that change of pace, but the cube of masa with a lid of banana leaf proved to be as abstract (and exquisitely turned out) as most previous plates showcasing ancient techniques in the service of contemporary cuisine. A drink of light, yet intense, cacao (the guys roast and grind their own chocolate) and honey followed.

By definition, a cloud can never come down to earth. But for those willing to let their feelings about ordinarily earthy Mexican cuisine be upended, silver linings abound. In spite of a lingering feeling that parts of the evening had been more entertaining than sustaining, we left Mixtli convinced that the experience, a ticket to the theater after all, had been altogether worth it—and ready to come again when the nomadic nube settles over, say, Sinaloa. But should you exit in need of a follow-up taco, we won’t tell.

Mixtli

5251 McCullough (in The Yard)
(832) 520-8928
restaurantmixtli.com
Best Bets The menu changes often, but trust the moles and the attention to detail paid to the corn
The Skinny Mixtli’s culinary theme moves from region to region in Mexico every 45 days. The menu utilizes both ancient methods and contemporary techniques in service of a reinterpreted cuisine. Expect a minimum of eight courses, each paired with appropriate beverages.
Hours Wed-Sat at 7pm, admission by previously purchased ticket only Price $80 plus tax

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