Trending
MOST READ
Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013
Best Happy Hour

Best Happy Hour

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
Skin Deeper: Scarlett Johansson as predator in ‘Under the Skin’

Skin Deeper: Scarlett Johansson as predator in ‘Under the Skin’

Screens: One of the first images in Jonathan Glazer’s Under the Skin is a tiny white dot at the center of a black screen. At what are we looking? An eclipse? The sun... By David Riedel 4/16/2014
Best Brunch

Best Brunch

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
Record Store Day Celebrates Vinyl and Independent Stores

Record Store Day Celebrates Vinyl and Independent Stores

Music: Like a phoenix rising from the ashes of physical mediums past, vinyl has seen a strong resurgence in the 21st century. Billboard reports that in... By Matt Stieb 4/16/2014
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Restaurant Review

Lemongrass struggles with identity and high ‘carbon clawprints’

Photo: Johh Huskin, License: N/A

Johh Huskin

Queen of Duck plate from Thai Lemongrass.


For just a dollar more you can net seafood and duck versions of any of the 17 basic preparations to which you add your chosen protein. (You can also stick with vegetables and/or tofu.) Eggplant Delight is listed on both lunch and dinner menus, and I tried it with pork, again at level six. Must have been a different cook, as the dish could have used a lot more heat to punch up what was otherwise a fairly bland dish, the Thai basil sauce not doing enough to elevate the slightly undercooked eggplant.

But another lunch special, the tantalizingly titled Queen of Duck, exceeds expectations. If you select the curry sauce, as I did at the waiter’s recommendation (he apparently read my mind when he warned that the tamarind sauce option was sweet), you may be surprised to find that the curry is more like a broth. This is not to be construed as a problem; the broth almost pulls the raw green beans into the fold in this case, and it adequately tempers cubes of pineapple. There’s a crisp leg, augmented by several slices of what is likely thigh meat. The result is both bright and earthy. If this is what the kitchen is really all about, then unleash the queens. •

We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus