Trending
MOST READ
Food-industry heroes: Cameron Davies and Matthew Marshall of Cruising Kitchens

Food-industry heroes: Cameron Davies and Matthew Marshall of Cruising Kitchens

Best of SA 2012 Critic Pick: Countless food shows featuring celebrity chefs have cast a bright light on the "back of the house," the kitchens that create the artful delicacies that drive restaurant success. 4/25/2012
Best River Walk Restaurant

Best River Walk Restaurant

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
2012 Best of San Antonio Food Winners List

2012 Best of San Antonio Food Winners List

Best of 2012: 2012 Best of San Antonio Food Winners List 4/25/2012
Remembering the remarkable Mr. Starcke

Remembering the remarkable Mr. Starcke

Arts & Culture: We lost a genuine San Antonio original with the passing of 90-year-old author, Broadway producer, New Age lecturer, confidante to stars and scalawags alike, world traveler, bon vivant and raconteur sans pareil Walter Starcke on October 25, 2011. By William Jack Sibley 11/2/2011
New Cove Bar is the Latest to Step Up Craft Brew Offerings in SA

New Cove Bar is the Latest to Step Up Craft Brew Offerings in SA

Nightlife: Believe it or not, The Cove co-owner Lisa Asvestas was once a Coors Light drinker. “Seriously, Coors Light,” she said with a hint of contrition... By Michael Barajas 5/15/2013
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Inventive menu at Laurent's Modern Cuisine holds few disappointments

Photo: PHOTOS BY JOSH HUSKIN, License: N/A

PHOTOS BY JOSH HUSKIN

Chef Laurent Rea.

Photo: , License: N/A

Asian beef cheeks salad with house-made pickles.


For desserts, we have pastry chef Elise Broz to blame, and it's clear that in her there's another major talent in the kitchen. Broz, with training both foreign and domestic, is not afraid to play with her food, and the results can be breathtaking. A bowl of tropical "soup" with pineapple in several forms, mango sorbet, and tapioca sounded impossibly busy but was a masterful blend of textures, tastes, and temperatures. Deconstructed s'mores come to you looking like a playground with Broz-made graham crackers (crumbled into play sand) and marshmallows, chocolate straws, a raspberry sorbet quenelle, and more. And gingered donuts with torched figs played warm against a cool lemon curd. Nothing beats leaving on a high note.

As I said: go now.

Laurent's Modern Cuisine

4230 McCullough,
(210) 822-6644

 

Best Bets The menu changes frequently, but soups and braises stand out — along with any dessert.

 

Hours 11:30am-2:30pm; 5-9:30pm Tues-Fri, 5-9:30pm Sat; 11am-3pm Sun (Brunch menu), 5-6:30pm Tues.-Sat. $25 early dinner menu

 

Prices $$-$$$

Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus