Food & Drink
Inventive menu at Laurent's Modern Cuisine holds few disappointments
PHOTOS BY JOSH HUSKIN
Chef Laurent Rea.
Asian beef cheeks salad with house-made pickles.
Published: August 29, 2012
For desserts, we have pastry chef Elise Broz to blame, and it's clear that in her there's another major talent in the kitchen. Broz, with training both foreign and domestic, is not afraid to play with her food, and the results can be breathtaking. A bowl of tropical "soup" with pineapple in several forms, mango sorbet, and tapioca sounded impossibly busy but was a masterful blend of textures, tastes, and temperatures. Deconstructed s'mores come to you looking like a playground with Broz-made graham crackers (crumbled into play sand) and marshmallows, chocolate straws, a raspberry sorbet quenelle, and more. And gingered donuts with torched figs played warm against a cool lemon curd. Nothing beats leaving on a high note.
As I said: go now.
Laurent's Modern Cuisine
4230 McCullough,
(210) 822-6644
Best Bets The menu changes frequently, but soups and braises stand out — along with any dessert.
Hours 11:30am-2:30pm; 5-9:30pm Tues-Fri, 5-9:30pm Sat; 11am-3pm Sun (Brunch menu), 5-6:30pm Tues.-Sat. $25 early dinner menu
Prices $$-$$$
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