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Food & Drink

Hit or Miss Eats at Kogi Korean Grill

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The fluffy Korean flapjack—try it with Kogi’s beef bulkogi

Never the biggest fan of K-Pop, and still harboring an irrational amount of blind hate for 2012 phenom PSY, I had pledged not to try the Gangnam Style street tacos. Yes, that’s a thing. on a menu. in San Antonio. The mere idea of the dish left me with a horrible sense of doom. But with not much left to lose, I ordered the tacos from the a la carte menu and waited. Four corn tortillas, humbly presented, topped with spicy pork bulkogi, onions, cilantro and Kogi sauce were delivered to the table, and damn if they weren’t flat-out good. I figured I’d cut my losses and vamoose before falling prey to the house again.

Perhaps instead of whitewashing layered Korean eats, the owners of Kogi should play up their San Antonio ties and head South, blending Korean red chili pepper flakes and Mexican chiles for a hot mix of fusion. For now, a visit to Kogi means flipping a coin and hoping you get lucky.

Kogi Korean Grill

2651 Vance Jackson, Ste 108,
(210) 558-2018,
Skinny Strip center joint offers Asian fusion, Korean favorites with mixed results.
Best Bets Beef bulkogi, Gangnam Style street tacos
Hours 11am-9pm Sun-Thur; 11am-10pm Fri-Sat
Price $6.50-$8.95 lunch; $3.95-$12.95 dinner

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