Trending
MOST READ
SAPD Issues Thousands of Tickets for Homelessness

SAPD Issues Thousands of Tickets for Homelessness

News: Data and records obtained by the Current show that between January 1, 2013, and early October of this year the... By Alexa Garcia-Ditta and Elaine Wolff 10/22/2014
‘Walking the Camino’ Explores a Treacherous Trek Through Spain

‘Walking the Camino’ Explores a Treacherous Trek Through Spain

Screens: In the Middle Ages, pilgrims walked the 500-mile El Camino de Santiago de Compostela as a pilgrimage to the tomb of Apostle St. James. It was an... By Stephen James Ross 10/22/2014
A Closer Look: The ins and outs of a few important races

A Closer Look: The ins and outs of a few important races

News: For more than a year now gubernatorial candidates Wendy Davis and Greg Abbott have dominated airwaves and secured way... By Mark Reagan 10/22/2014
Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Music: Chris Pérez never saw it coming. “All I ever wanted to do was play guitar,” he told the Current. “I never thought I’d be the subject of an interview... By Enrique Lopetegui 8/28/2013
5 Awesome Ways to Survive on Ramen

5 Awesome Ways to Survive on Ramen

College Guide 2013: Nearly every college student has lived off of ramen noodles at one point or another. What a lot of them didn’t know was that the classic just-add-water... By Mary Caithn Scott 8/20/2013
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Gwendolyn gets friendly

Photo: Scott Andrews, License: N/A

Scott Andrews

Ricotta in puff paste amuse-bouche.


Since opening a year and a half ago, Gwendolyn has firmly held her ground: a circle of land precisely 150-miles in radius from the small restaurant on the banks of the San Antonio River. That's the limited territory that provides the artisanal fixings for Michael Sohocki's expression of extreme locavore principles. In a quest for authenticity and healthy eating, the kitchen limits ingredients and techniques to those practiced before 1850, and tends to favor culinary influences that reflect San Antonio's 18th century demographics — German and Czech influences dominate. But Sohocki and crew have still found room to experiment. In the last month, Greek dishes have found their place on the ever-changing prix-fixe menu; plans for the immediate future include a week of charcuterie specials. The event will be held the end of the month at Restaurant Gwendolyn and several other restaurants (we've heard The Monterey and Blue Star Brewing Company are on board — details to come), but you can get a preview with Gwendolyn's char board, offered at $20.

Our attention was caught by changing price points. In addition to affordable lunches introduced earlier this year at $6-$12, and a recent a la carte dinner menu priced $12-$32, Gwendolyn has quietly added an early bird special. Offered between 5:30-6:30 p.m. with reservations, it slashes the usual $55 three-course meal to $35 (sorry, no discounts on the $75 five-course dinner).

Last week, an amuse-bouche of ricotta in puff paste introduced the first course of rich roasted fig and persimmon paired with a savory bite of house-made bacon, a palate-opening trio before the main dish of pan-seared quail topping bigoli arrabiatta — a fat spaghetti-like Venetian pasta. Quail is often served baked whole, but rough-cut and pan-fried, the tender meat was exceedingly moist and succulent. To complete the trio plus-one, a desert of crème bavaroise with the tang of Meyer lemon echoed earlier fruit tones. The individual tastes and textures of each course were delightful, but it is the sequencing and timing (be sure to allot at least 90 minutes for the experience) that are most impressive. Like a painter or composer, Sohocki deals in negative space, using the time between the courses like un-figured ground, or the caesura, or rest, in music. We may show up for the bright and dark flavors of honestly treated ingredients, but as in a concert or exhibition — the take-away is the experience.

Restaurant Gwendolyn

152 E Pecan, Ste. 100
(210) 222-1849
restaurantgwendolyn.com
Hours: Lunch 11-30am-2pm, Mon-Fri; Dinner 5:30-9pm Tue-Sat
Prices: $6-$75

Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus