Trending
MOST READ
Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013
New Sensation: SA’s Austin Mahone and teen pop superstardom

New Sensation: SA’s Austin Mahone and teen pop superstardom

Music: Like the bulk of Austin Mahone’s Instagram account, this one’s a selfie. In a white tank top, hair coifed up real big, Mahone arranges... By Matt Stieb 7/22/2014
Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Music: Chris Pérez never saw it coming. “All I ever wanted to do was play guitar,” he told the Current. “I never thought I’d be the subject of an interview... By Enrique Lopetegui 8/28/2013
7 Public Art Projects Worth Searching For

7 Public Art Projects Worth Searching For

Arts & Culture: You’re likely familiar with the high-profile works of public art on view around downtown San Antonio: the gigantic, red swoop of... By Sarah Fisch 7/23/2014
Chris Perez, husband of slain Tejana icon Selena, tells of romance, suffering

Chris Perez, husband of slain Tejana icon Selena, tells of romance, suffering

Arts & Culture: In one of the final chapters of his book To Selena, With Love (out March 6), Selena's widower Chris Perez mentions that Abraham Quintanilla, his former father-in-law, once... By Enrique Lopetegui 3/7/2012
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Fast Foodie: The Luxury

Photo: Ana Aguirre, License: N/A

Ana Aguirre


It seems ridiculous that San Antonio had to wait so long for The Luxury, renowned chef Andrew Weissman’s (Sandbar, Il Sogno) latest effort to cater to the masses. The funky shipping container concept took about two years longer than expected to open on an asphalt patch between the San Antonio River and 1221 Broadway lofts.

When the property finally debuted in March, the long delay dissipated into a distant memory. The open-air spot, utilizing two separate containers for kitchen and bar, and an all-outdoor serving area, recalls Southtown’s beloved La Tuna Bar and Grill, only with swankier options for both dining and drinking.

At surprisingly low — but not dirt-cheap — price points, the changing menu focuses on salads and sandwiches, with a few sides and desserts. Before my first visit, I’d been warned about small portion sizes, so I chose the bound-to-be-hearty Pulled Pig sandwich. Turns out I shouldn’t have worried. Most sandwiches ordered by our group came overstuffed, the exception being a divinely rich Taleggio grilled cheese. My Pulled Pig satisfied, but a French fry-stuffed lamb souvlaki, and garlicky griddled steak were much tastier displays of kitchen ingenuity.

On my return I ordered the crispy fish banh mi. It deservedly claims the top spot on the Luxury’s chalkboard menu. The breaded and fried white fish is absolutely crispy, not soggy, and the piles of herbs, including the traditional cilantro and Thai basil, made for a well-balanced spin on this Vietnamese classic. I would ditch the fried egg: its runny yolk required a knife and fork to handle the sandwich, negating the whole point of the culinary invention. Otherwise, I’m excited to return for the new tofu option. On the salad side, the sweet-tart kale version, spiked with cranberries and Parmesan, scored, but a watery Pura Vida salad, with corn, tomato, hearts of palm, and out-of-place walnuts, missed. My group was also underwhelmed with the Milanesa and the Tico (a Caribbean riff on the beloved torta), perhaps because so many exquisite varieties of both abound in this city, for a helluva lot less than $9 or $8 a pop. The salted caramel chocolate pudding, however, is even better than it sounds and worth every penny.

Whether you’re day drinking and playing bocce ball on the property’s courts or washing down your dinner, the Luxury’s wine and beer bar is almost pitch perfect. There are some pricey imported ales on tap, but most beers stay in the $4-6 range, with Mickey’s (yes, that Mickey’s) at a mere $2.50. Wines are more problematic. Once rumored to have been “on tap,” that idea was quickly nixed, and now only full or half-bottles are available, with no by-the-glass options.

While no one should go to the laid-back, order-up Luxury expecting the superb service and attention to detail lavished on patrons of Weissman’s more upscale joints, this spot fills a void both physically and conceptually, marrying San Antonio’s ice house tradition to our culinary zeitgeist.

The Luxury

103 E Jones

Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus