Trending
MOST READ
Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013
Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Music: Chris Pérez never saw it coming. “All I ever wanted to do was play guitar,” he told the Current. “I never thought I’d be the subject of an interview... By Enrique Lopetegui 8/28/2013
Chris Perez, husband of slain Tejana icon Selena, tells of romance, suffering

Chris Perez, husband of slain Tejana icon Selena, tells of romance, suffering

Arts & Culture: In one of the final chapters of his book To Selena, With Love (out March 6), Selena's widower Chris Perez mentions that Abraham Quintanilla, his former father-in-law, once... By Enrique Lopetegui 3/7/2012
Best Jogging Trail

Best Jogging Trail

Best of 2013: 4/24/2013
Veg Out with Earth Burger

Veg Out with Earth Burger

Food & Drink: “Do you want cheese on that?” “Yeah, sure.” “Vegan or organic?” “Um, what? Where am I?” By Jessica Elizarraras 7/23/2014
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Fast Foodie

Fast Foodie: Mesón European Dining

Photo: Lauren W. Madrid, License: N/A

Lauren W. Madrid

Grandma would approve: Veal piccata from Mesón European Dining.


There’s a sliding scale for any kind of review. You know How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days is a bad movie, but it can be nice on a lazy Sunday. The Black Eyed Peas aren’t making ground-breaking music, but it makes a great jogging soundtrack. Some things are empirically terrible, but have a place for some people. Mesón has a place — with grandparents (or those who equate European cooking with heavy, oily food) when they want a fancy night out.

Mesón’s décor even reminds me of my grandmother’s house: ornate embroidered chairs, dark wood furniture, and crisp white linens. If only the food was as well-thought-out as the interior design. Lunch started with the baked artichoke hearts topped with cheese. The sauce quickly separated, leaving cheese globules floating in oil. The artichoke hearts themselves were fine, but hard to appreciate under all the fat. The cream of asparagus soup tasted mostly of dairy, with a hint of asparagus. The French onion soup was better, although it was too hot to eat for 15 minutes. The broth was sufficiently meaty, laden with bread and cheese.

I thought things might improve with the lunch specials. Lighten up, perhaps, and show a bit of depth. The veal piccata with pasta wasn’t breaded too heavily, but tasted mostly of lemons. The pasta has no sauce on it. I guess diners are meant to use all of the leftover sauces to dress their own pasta. Chicken Marco Polo, a creation of the owner, was breaded, stuffed with broccoli, and topped with cream sauce: a bit like chicken cordon bleu, except without the saltiness of cured meats to cut through the richness of dairy.

The problem is balance of flavor — everything on the menu is cheesy, or oily, or meaty, but nothing else. One-note dishes lack sophistication and finesse, and tend to appeal to people who don’t want their palates challenged. I’m not one of those people.

 

Mesón European Dining

927 North Loop 1604 East

(210) 690-5811

We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus