Best Brunch

Best Brunch

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
Italian: SoBro Pizza Co.

Italian: SoBro Pizza Co.

Flavor 2014: If you build it, they will come. If you build it underneath their apartments, they’ll stop by for gelato, Napolitano pizzas and an excellent wine... 7/29/2014
Dessert & Bakery: La Panaderia

Dessert & Bakery: La Panaderia

Flavor 2014: Los panaderos are in San Antonio. Brothers David and Jose Cacéres have opened the first of what could be many locations of La Panaderia, a concept the... 7/29/2014
Best Happy Hour

Best Happy Hour

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
'The Queen of Versailles': How David Siegel ruined the world and then got screwed himself

'The Queen of Versailles': How David Siegel ruined the world and then got screwed himself

Screens & Tech: Lauren Greenfield won two documentary directorial awards at Sundance this year for her fascinating portrayal of David and Jaqueline Siegel, billionaires building the biggest... By Enrique Lopetegui 10/3/2012

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Fast Foodie: Maggiano's Little Italy

Photo: Veronica Luna, License: N/A

Veronica Luna

Crab, shrimp, and arugula salad from Maggiano's Little Italy.

Should you find yourself in The Rim anytime soon — maybe catching a sale at Off 5th or Nordstrom's … or buying a bass boat (I won't say which I was doing, but I suspect that nobody will guess bass boat), then Maggiano's Little Italy, yes, a shameless chain, may impose itself between bouts of sock and shirt selection. It could be worse.

The place presents itself as annoyingly corporate in design: Dean Martin dark and clubby leavened with red-checkered tablecloths. There is the expected Rat-Packish soundtrack —though ratcheted up to include Michael Bublé. The waitstaff, if my waiter is typical, is conservatively attired but shamelessly pushy. "Red or white wine?" were just about the first words out of his mouth. He then suggested I might like a soup to go with my salad.

And in fact, I did. The creamy chicken with potato was not, as I had feared, a seasoned library-paste kinda concoction. It was lightly creamy, reasonably well stocked with potato and chicken, and only needed a little ground pepper from the grinder at the table. Impressive, that grinder.

I admit to having been sorely tempted by a Classic Pasta offer, namely one to eat and one to take home, all at $12.95. (From the looks of the number of take-out bags lined up on a counter near me, a lot of people had been similarly tempted.) But in the long run, I didn't really want eggplant parmesan with spaghetti pomodoro or Taylor Street baked ziti after buying really classy, striped socks in great colors. More appropriate to the shopping spree was a lunch salad of crab (the real thing) with shrimp (also real — not those annoying "cocktail" shrimp) and arugula with a "lemonette" dressing. Over-dressing is often a problem with big-bowl salads, but Maggiano's had used a light hand — so light that the lemon wasn't really apparent, but, did I say this before? It could have been worse. Much worse. Again, I made use of the pepper grinder.

"Regular or decaf?" Neither, thanks. I passed on dessert, too, even though under other circumstances (that super-sale shirt was still not exactly cheap) I might have considered Nonna's toasted pound cake or the apple crostata. Next sale.


Little Italy
17603 IH 10 W
(210) 451-6000


Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus