Trending
MOST READ
Skin Deeper: Scarlett Johansson as predator in ‘Under the Skin’

Skin Deeper: Scarlett Johansson as predator in ‘Under the Skin’

Screens: One of the first images in Jonathan Glazer’s Under the Skin is a tiny white dot at the center of a black screen. At what are we looking? An eclipse? The sun... By David Riedel 4/16/2014
Best Bar Trivia Night

Best Bar Trivia Night

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
Alamo Colleges Barely Passed Its Own Accountability Test

Alamo Colleges Barely Passed Its Own Accountability Test

News: After months of passionate protest, petitions and public forums, faculty, students and administration of the five Alamo Community Colleges let out... By Mary Tuma 4/16/2014
SA’s Shadiest (in a good way) Parks

SA’s Shadiest (in a good way) Parks

City Guide 2014: For anyone in charge of a child or two, knowing where to find the nearest playground is information as essential as the numbers for poison control and your pediatrician... By Joy-Marie Scott 2/24/2014
There’s plenty to celebrate on the Old 97\'s 20th birthday

There’s plenty to celebrate on the Old 97's 20th birthday

Music: Back in the 1990s, when major labels would still propose multi-album deals to relative unknowns, Rhett Miller and the Old 97's sat in the offices... By Callie Enlow 4/16/2014
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Fast Foodie

Fast Foodie: Los Agaves

Photo: Josh Huskin, License: N/A

Josh Huskin

Tacos norteños from Los Agaves.


The owners of Los Agaves, the latest in a series of restaurants of different ethnicities in the same shopping center space, are said to be from Mexico City, but it's a little hard to detect that from the food. Cabrito sounds more Monterrey, coctel de camaron speaks of the coast, and cochinita pibil? The Yucatán. But if the menu is of the pan-Mex, hit-parade persuasion, the food coming out of the kitchen is almost entirely persuasive. We started with a sopa de tortilla and were immediately intrigued by its presentation: the rusty broth, afloat with avocado and generously endowed with chicken, was served alongside a platter filled with add-ins much in the manner of pho or pozole. There was a pile of fried tortilla strips, bowls of crema Mexicana, cilantro, onion, and queso fresco, and a mound of crackling chicharron. Once all was added, muy sabrosa. Though we did add a little of the table's toasty salsa to the tacos norteños, two very good flour tortillas stuffed with well-seasoned arrachera, queso Oaxaca, beans, and avocado didn't need it.

Also exceptional was a brace of generous tostadas de tinga de pollo; where tinga, consisting of shredded chicken simmered with tomato and chiles, can be dry and uneventful, here it was anything but. Cheese, crema, and more bulked up the presentation but didn't dominate. With the unfortunate exception of corn tortillas, Los Agaves prides itself on making most everything in-house — even the mole. Once we learned that there was a lady "in the back of the kitchen" who made it, we had to have enchiladas de pollo bathed in the complex sauce. The plate was impressive looking, the chicken good in its own right… but the mole, its graininess convincingly suggesting ground nuts, was almost cloyingly sweet, more than hinting of Hershey's. Hard to get beyond. In time, we did get over the notion of the beanie-weenie-style borracho beans that accompanied the enchiladas. The sliced sausage was jarring at first, but jalapeño and bacon eventually turned the tide, as they tend to do.

Although evening entrées run from $7 to $19, most lunch plates are in the $6-$8 range, making Los Agaves an especially worthy midday destination.

Los Agaves

7115 Blanco
(210) 524-2416
losagavessa.com

We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus