Trending
MOST READ
Best Brunch

Best Brunch

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013
Dessert & Bakery: La Panaderia

Dessert & Bakery: La Panaderia

Flavor 2014: Los panaderos are in San Antonio. Brothers David and Jose Cacéres have opened the first of what could be many locations of La Panaderia, a concept the... 7/29/2014
Italian: SoBro Pizza Co.

Italian: SoBro Pizza Co.

Flavor 2014: If you build it, they will come. If you build it underneath their apartments, they’ll stop by for gelato, Napolitano pizzas and an excellent wine... 7/29/2014
Best Happy Hour

Best Happy Hour

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Fast Foodie

Fast Foodie: Dulce Vida Mexican Cocina & Cantina

Photo: Josh Huskin, License: N/A

Josh Huskin

Taquitos al pastor from Dulce Vida Mexican Cocina & Cantina.


For a restaurant with sweet life connotations, Dulce Vida’s first impressions strike a less-than-saccharine note. For starters, the restaurant occupies the shell of an oddly designed, former Greek restaurant, faux columns, Mykonos murals, and all. A few conventionally Mexican artworks on the walls are the only evidence of a genre-change operation. Given the elevated prices, the menu is not a model of inspiration; a chile poblano stuffed with chicken and cheese and “cooked over the grill to perfection!” and a “creamy cilantro sauce” are about the only indications of aspirations. The serving pieces are cafeteria quality, nobody would accuse the cook of overly precious presentation, the waitstaff apparently don’t have to pass a drill sergeant’s uniform inspection …

But then comes redemption: The food here really tastes good. Dulce Vida’s table salsa is seriously toasty yet also brightly acidic; it makes the standard-issue chips taste almost too acceptable. A shaken Mexican Martini ($7.95), the only Margarita-like libation that didn’t seem too tricked out with extra ingredients, made the most of El Jimador, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, and an un-advertised chile-salt rim. And that chile relleno mentioned above? Let’s move to a new paragraph.

The poblano ($9.99 at lunch) is simply stuffed with chicken, white cheese, and onion; it has been charred, then grilled; and it’s topped with that aforementioned sauce. And I have only one suggestion: some fresh cilantro sprinkled on at the end to lend freshness and a slightly better look; it’s otherwise very respectable. The accompanying Mexican rice has genuine flavor, an over-blended dab of guacamole is nevertheless flavor-packed, and the soupy/bacony charra beans are truly sensational.

Taquitos al pastor at DV are very proudly priced at $13.99 for four (including the beans), and the plate is anything but visually impressive. Mexican pop music on the sound system hardly justifies the price premium over a good taco truck. But again, the tastes transcend the trappings. The pork is tender and very well seasoned, there are cubes of pineapple (though they should show signs of grilling), and the corn tortillas pass muster.

What to make of all this? There needs to be more than a Stone Oak-area location to justify comida corriente pero cara. The kitchen is apparently capable. That leaves the rest to management.

 

Dulce Vida Mexican Cocina & Cantina

19178 Blanco at Huebner
(210) 496-6724
dulcevidasa.com

We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus