Drew’s finding its way around the deli

Texans do know from cole slaw, and the lack of punchy flavor is an issue with other dishes that are otherwise admirably executed. A handsome dish of shrimp orrechiette proved that the chef can certainly put together a thoughtful mix of perfect, tail-on shrimp with impeccable asparagus and roasted red peppers; there was even a hint of Pernod or absinthe. So it may be that the pasta is not always chewy. But it is certainly within the control of the chef to ratchet up the flavor of the white wine cream sauce. This is Texas, guys; we don’t require being knocked on our butts with every bite, but full-bodied taste is appreciated.

A dish that should also be hearty/earthy is the braised beef short rib. Yes, singular. Sampled without the accompanying natural jus, it had little personality of its own — though it did have a just-right, fall-from-the-bone texture. Plate-mate butternut squash purée tasted of the real thing, nothing more; the sidekick creamed spinach was just that. Can’t believe I’m suggesting the merest whisper of nutmeg.

Drew’s banana pudding is a dessert they may be sorry they ever offered; it’s obscenely popular, and a boozy variation tasted at a launch of Rebecca Creek’s whiskey only confirmed its worth. Foodie friends with impeccable taste are mad for the warm cookies and milk and the PB&J panino between house-made challah. Naturally, I had to try the NY style cheesecake.

There’s little agreement on its exact composition, but it should, in any case, be tall, dense and creamy… with maybe a little citrus zest. There’s no discernable zest in Drew’s, but otherwise, mazel tov. Promise to split it. And promise, too, that you will give Drew’s a try; it’s a place I will be happy to revisit over time to check its progress. And there’s always the incentive of the really serious bar with exceptional cocktails and a Mixology Monday reverse happy hour from 9 to close when all drinks are $5.

We still need a perfect little deli, though. •