Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013
Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Music: Chris Pérez never saw it coming. “All I ever wanted to do was play guitar,” he told the Current. “I never thought I’d be the subject of an interview... By Enrique Lopetegui 8/28/2013
Best Happy Hour

Best Happy Hour

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013

Best Romantic Restaurant

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013
Chris Perez, husband of slain Tejana icon Selena, tells of romance, suffering

Chris Perez, husband of slain Tejana icon Selena, tells of romance, suffering

Arts & Culture: In one of the final chapters of his book To Selena, With Love (out March 6), Selena's widower Chris Perez mentions that Abraham Quintanilla, his former father-in-law, once... By Enrique Lopetegui 3/7/2012

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Drew’s finding its way around the deli

Photo: Veronica Luna, License: N/A

Veronica Luna

A fully loaded Reuben sandwich from Drew’s American Grill.

Texans do know from cole slaw, and the lack of punchy flavor is an issue with other dishes that are otherwise admirably executed. A handsome dish of shrimp orrechiette proved that the chef can certainly put together a thoughtful mix of perfect, tail-on shrimp with impeccable asparagus and roasted red peppers; there was even a hint of Pernod or absinthe. So it may be that the pasta is not always chewy. But it is certainly within the control of the chef to ratchet up the flavor of the white wine cream sauce. This is Texas, guys; we don’t require being knocked on our butts with every bite, but full-bodied taste is appreciated.

A dish that should also be hearty/earthy is the braised beef short rib. Yes, singular. Sampled without the accompanying natural jus, it had little personality of its own — though it did have a just-right, fall-from-the-bone texture. Plate-mate butternut squash purée tasted of the real thing, nothing more; the sidekick creamed spinach was just that. Can’t believe I’m suggesting the merest whisper of nutmeg.

Drew’s banana pudding is a dessert they may be sorry they ever offered; it’s obscenely popular, and a boozy variation tasted at a launch of Rebecca Creek’s whiskey only confirmed its worth. Foodie friends with impeccable taste are mad for the warm cookies and milk and the PB&J panino between house-made challah. Naturally, I had to try the NY style cheesecake.

There’s little agreement on its exact composition, but it should, in any case, be tall, dense and creamy… with maybe a little citrus zest. There’s no discernable zest in Drew’s, but otherwise, mazel tov. Promise to split it. And promise, too, that you will give Drew’s a try; it’s a place I will be happy to revisit over time to check its progress. And there’s always the incentive of the really serious bar with exceptional cocktails and a Mixology Monday reverse happy hour from 9 to close when all drinks are $5.

We still need a perfect little deli, though. •


Drew’s American Grill

18740 Stone Oak Pkwy
(210) 483-7600


The Skinny
Classic deli delights mated to some standard American classics. Classic cocktails, too.


Best Bets
Reuben to cheese cake, plus any stirred or shaken cocktail.


9am-10pm Mon-Wed, 9am-11pm Thu-Sat; 9am-9pm Sun


Prices Dinner, $12-$33

We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus