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Food & Drink

Camaron Pelado reintroduces us to the magic of ceviche

Photo: Steven Gilmore, License: N/A

Steven Gilmore

Camaron Pelado's shrimp aguachile, ceviche, and Taco Gobernador.


Pescado entero, or whole fish, is a common feature of Mexican coastal restaurants, and at CP the choices are tilapia, red snapper, and catfish, either fried or grilled or served in mojo de ajo or "sarandiado" style. Sarandiado has as many variations in fact as it does in spelling, with approaches ranging from a simple grilling with lime to a more baroque preparation involving mustard, soy sauce, and a bottled hot sauce such as Valentina. CP's mancha manteles may have been minimalist, but its sarandeado (we chose to do a filet of tilapia in lieu of a whole fish) comes down squarely in the more-is-more camp. The result is gloriously excessive — and some of the best tilapia in recent memory. Green bells, tomato and onion enliven the mustardy sauce, and you will come to appreciate the discreet yellow rice for its ability to mitigate the sauce's richness. Somewhere in the equation there were fries, which one would be prudent to ignore. Another Pacifico, please.•

Camaron Pelado Seafood Grill

2918 W Commerce at Zarzamora
(210) 434-6700
camaronpelado.com

 

The Skinny
CP is puro Westside in feel and puro coastal in cuisine — with some exceptions. Go with friends and get down with ceviche and cerveza.

 

Best Bets
Ceviches, shrimp aguachiles, and whole fish or filets sarandeado

 

Hours
10am-10pm Sun-Thurs; 10am-11pm Fri-Sat

 

Prices
Dinner entrées: $6.99-$13.99 (not including whole, market-price fish)

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