Food & Drink
Barbaro: Upscale pizza and then some
Published: October 9, 2013
A popular ’za seems to be the taleggio, hash browns, kale and honey offering. The taleggio is the first whiff that hits the table, and stays long after the pizza’s gone, but after sampling it twice, I’d hope for a more generous sprinkling of finely chopped kale. Would it drastically change the flavor profile? No, the honey’s got you covered for days, but the nutritious leafy greens might make this and other diners feel better about finishing off most of a small pie.
The latest addition to the menu, an interpretation of clams casino with Benton’s bacon (don’t be surprised by the prevalence of this item on the menu, it’s Carey’s go-to for a reason), white wine, fried garlic and Berberechos or cockle clams, topped with a sprinkle of parsley, is rich and briny. Calabrese peppers add a pleasant kick.
There’s always a build-your-own option for the safe set of eaters out there, $8 or $11 depending on size, and Barbaro offers many toppings priced under $4 (the price is halved per topping for small pizzas).
Fearless gourmands could spend long evenings at Barbaro with the aforementioned canned goodies or conservas (priced for big and small budgets, thankfully), noshing on the cheese plates and ordering craft beer by the pitcher or classic cocktails from the bar. Biedenharn, Carey and Schlather have created a comfortable, yet daring new venture that combines familiar neighborhood pizza place with audacious menu items only intrepid gastronomes will dare eating.*
*The article is updated to reflect partner Erick Schlather's involvement in Barbaro
Best Bets The stone fruit salad, the Gorgonzola, green apple and honey cheese plate, the clams casino pizza, the taleggio hash brown, kale and honey pizza
The Skinny Barbaro combines neighborhood pizza place with out-of-the-ordinary ingredients; patrons decide their dining path. Look for brunch soon, and lunch specials
Hours 10am-midnight Mon-Thu; 11am-1am Fri-Sat; 11am-midnight Sun
Prices $7-$17 cheese plates, pizzas, salads; $9-$39 conservas