Trending
MOST READ
Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013
Brendan Gleeson Carries Pitch-black ‘Calvary,’ Weighed Down by the Rest

Brendan Gleeson Carries Pitch-black ‘Calvary,’ Weighed Down by the Rest

Screens: Father James (Brendan Gleeson) sits in a confessional, waiting. An unseen man enters the box and says, “The first time I tasted semen, I was seven... By David Riedel 8/20/2014
15 Types of Commonly Encountered College Students

15 Types of Commonly Encountered College Students

College Issue 2014: Usually a freshman, this student tries to absorb everything the teacher says and immediately after class rushes to... By Alex Deleon 8/18/2014
Free Will Astrology

Free Will Astrology

Astrology: ARIES (March 21-April 19): An American named Kevin Shelley accomplished a feat worthy of inclusion in the... By Rob Brezsny 8/20/2014
What to Know Before You Go On A Cleanse

What to Know Before You Go On A Cleanse

Food & Drink: It’s been a year since I’ve taken up this gig of eating and drinking across San Antonio. Since then, no fewer than seven juice shops have opened in the area... By Jessica Elizarraras 8/20/2014
Calendar

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Food & Drink

Badass Curries, and Then Some, at Jason Dady’s Umai Mi

Photo: paytonphotography.com, License: N/A

paytonphotography.com

Umai Mi wins the green papaya salad-off


The lamb is considered a “large” plate and merits a reasonable $19. At $13 and $15 respectively, the unagi jungle curry and panang curry with crispy duck and crispy noodles are considered bowls and are both products of the massive mortar and pestle that is not just an adornment on the chef’s counter.

They are also both badass. Dady has elected to spend the kitchen’s time hand-grinding the curries from scratch, not with making noodles. The decision makes special sense here as the noodles ultimately melt magnificently into the vibrant curry, leaving the duck to supply the textural element. But if the duck is dangerously good, the jungle curry with eel and Japanese eggplant is utterly mind-blowing, the ultimate umami experience, at once mellow and challenging. In contrast to any expectations regarding halved pig’s heads, there will be no eels apparent in this dish—just fantastic and well-integrated flavors.

Should dessert now seem essential, go for it; the appropriately quotation-marked “Thai Iced Coffee” is well worth investigating. The only challenge here is knowing when to stop. If at all.

5:15 p.m., March 5, 2014: This article has been corrected to properly identify the interior design team.

 

Umai Mi

555 W Bitters,
(210) 496-0555,
umaimisa.com
The Skinny An irreverent take on classic and modern Asian, with dishes ranging from doctored deviled eggs to tamarind-lacquered brisket and miso-marinated sea bass
Best bets Barrel-aged Old Fashioned and Little Bit Country cocktails, green papaya salad, beef tongue steamed buns, unagi jungle curry, panang duck curry, “Thai Iced Coffee.”
Hours 11am-2pm (Dim sum), 2-9pm (full menu) Sun, 11am-10pm Mon-Thur; 11am-11pm Fri-Sat; Happy Hour 4-6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sun
Price $4-$24

Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus