Food: Critic's Pick
Best Interior Mexican Restaurant
Published: April 23, 2014
Cascabel Mexican Patio
1000 S St. Mary’s, (210) 212-6456
Let’s face it folks, San Antonio has been so influenced by Tex-Mex that any cuisine beyond the Mexamerican border has never had a fighting chance—despite proclamations on restaurant signs all over town. In retaliation, it’s tempting to nominate the boys at Mixtli with their ethereal, seasonal evocations of regional Mexican food. But it seems right to first reward persistence and longevity, and that brings us to Cascabel. This unassuming spot in the center of Southtown has long been a lone voice trumpeting the likes of tortas de tinga, ensalada de nopales, huraches with cochinita pibil and that lusty/rusty goat stew called birria. It’s not that one can’t get a few of these and other offerings such as tlacoyos and posole (done here with goat) at a few other places around town, but rather that Cascabel does only this—no gravy-smothered enchiladas with yellow cheese, gracias very much.