Best Brunch

Best Brunch

Best of SA 2013: 4/24/2013

Best Spa

Best of 2013: 4/24/2013
The Different Types of Roommates You Might Encounter and How to Deal

The Different Types of Roommates You Might Encounter and How to Deal

College Guide 2013: If you’re going to be in a college dorm, a spacious apartment, a cramped shared bedroom or anywhere on a college campus for that matter, be prepared for your... By Mary Caithn Scott 8/20/2013
Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Chris Pérez, Selena’s Husband, Faces His Past and Looks Forward, Musically

Music: Chris Pérez never saw it coming. “All I ever wanted to do was play guitar,” he told the Current. “I never thought I’d be the subject of an interview... By Enrique Lopetegui 8/28/2013
Beaches Be Trippin\': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Beaches Be Trippin': Five Texas Coast Spots Worth the Drive

Arts & Culture: Let’s face it, most of us Lone Stars view the Texas coast as a poor man’s Waikiki. Hell, maybe just a poor man’s Panama Beach — only to be used... By Callie Enlow 7/10/2013

Search hundreds of restaurants in our database.

Search hundreds of clubs in our database.

Follow us on Instagram @sacurrent

Print Email

Arts & Culture

Pho is Good, but Viva's Bun is Better

Photo: Justin Parr, License: N/A

Justin Parr

Top row L-R: fish sauce, garnish plate, No. 31 flank steak pho tál; Bottom row: bun thit nuong chá gio, orange honey ginger tea

Far less ubiquitous than Tex-Mex and less familiar than Chinese or Indian, Vietnamese food fills a particular niche in this city’s culinary landscape. The most recent addition to this genre in San Antonio is Viva Pho and Teabo Lounge in Castle Hills. Situated in the former home of the late Lucky Burger on NW Military, the restaurant has undergone a fair amount of renovation and seats about 60 inside. Small, circular mirrors punctuate the bright blue walls while white, lotus-like lamps hang from the ceiling, casting soft light on patrons while whispering “IKEA” to the polyglot clientele. The patio is shaded and breezy if somewhat plain and seats roughly 20, with a few tall, bar-style two-tops.

This family-owned restaurant has only been open for a few weeks, which is long enough to have garnered a fair amount of attention — and some criticism. Within days of opening, grumbles about Viva’s slow and borderline neglectful service emerged online as diners relayed their first impressions. Having heard these complaints, my own experience with the friendly and attentive waitstaff came as a pleasant surprise. Servers happily obliged requests for advice, explained particular dishes, and kept drinks full. They also all seemed to have the numbered menu memorized, an attractive fact to guests wary of phonetic embarrassment.

Appetizers run between $2.99 and $10.95, with an order of two summer rolls landing on the lower end of the spectrum at $3.95. Shrimp and pork peeked through the sticky, translucent rice paper wrapping, joined by lettuce, herbs, and a few veggies. The rolls prominently featured basil, and although a bit more cilantro wouldn’t have hurt, flavors in the tightly wound roll were generally well proportioned. The pork was on the dry side and mostly unnecessary, but the shrimp were crisp and a rich, thick peanut sauce brought just enough sweetness and moisture to make the rolls interesting.

In the way of pho, Viva presents 10 variations of the much-loved comfort food. Hearty portions of the civilly priced ($6.45 to $8.95) soups come with filet mignon, brisket, tendon, tripe, meatballs, flank steak, or eye round, plus a few combinations of these.

The steaming broth — the backbone of any pho and first indicator of quality — of my number 31 pho táì was clear and flavorful. Abundant rice noodles were more round than flat and boiled to just done, successfully avoiding the mushy texture that comes from overcooking. The standard garnish plate included sprouts, basil, cilantro, lime, and jalapeno. The order’s thin-sliced flank steak wasn’t quite rare, as indicated on the menu, but far from overdone.

Best of all, the steak worked in harmony with other ingredients in the soup. As is usually the case in Vietnamese fare, the protein was treated as one component among many rather than the focal point of the meal. The prevailing obsession with meat that sways so many restaurants to veer from their cultural authenticity doesn’t seem to have taken root at Viva Pho. My soup was filling but not heavy, and the rice vermicelli bowls displayed this same refreshing departure from the cult of meat worship.

Recently in Food & Drink
We welcome user discussion on our site, under the following guidelines:

To comment you must first create a profile and sign-in with a verified DISQUS account or social network ID. Sign up here.

Comments in violation of the rules will be denied, and repeat violators will be banned. Please help police the community by flagging offensive comments for our moderators to review. By posting a comment, you agree to our full terms and conditions. Click here to read terms and conditions.
comments powered by Disqus